Chapter 77: The best kept secret in Canada

I'm sure I'm biased, but before setting off on my cross-country epic, I was pretty sure the west was the most beautiful part of Canada. There have been amazing sights along the way, but I left Newfoundland more convinced of that than ever, particularly Tofino.

Suddenly a new contender entered the ring. Cape Breton island is stunningly beautiful, teeming with wildlife, both land and water-based, and compared to Tofino, it's relatively easy to find accomodations on short notice.

When explorer John Cabot arrived in 1497, he must have thought he'd stumbled on the world's best kept secret. The trail named for him winds around the top of the island, with sweeping coastal viewpoints accessible by car or hundreds of kilometres of hiking trails, overlooking waters teeming with lobster and whales.

I camped on a grassy plateau above a beach which was only accessible by a rope ladder. Being that I was the only one brave, or maybe foolish enough to climb down, I had the entire beach to myself. I took a swim, nearly stepping on a live lobster, and saw a few more at a glance. Looking out at the horizon, I spied a dozen pilot whales under a golden sunset.

It's the kind of place that would get much more acclaim if more people knew how special it is.

I'm glad they don't. It was a fitting end to an amazing trip.