chapter 4: the unbearable loudness of being

it's 2:30 in the morning, and i'm suddenly jolted awake by the megaphone crowing of a rooster. i do a panicky half-turn in bed, swim to the surface of consciousness and take a quick look at the clock. it's not time to get up. i heave a sigh, equal parts relief and annoyance. damn cock! i thought they were supposed to warn about the coming of the big orange disc?

the daily routine has begun. i roll over and go back to sleep, but not for long.

every morning, the roosters tune up well before sunrise, and continue crowing until well past daybreak. they're preceded by hordes of dogs, crickets, frogs and birds, all in fine voice. and later, when the people begin to stir, they join the chorus.

in ghana, life is live and in stereo. the televisions, radios, people, car horns...everything is deafening. when my alarm sounds every morning at 6:30, i've usually been half awake for some time, dimly aware of kids crying, radios blaring and people shouting. always shouting. The walls do little to insulate me from the uproar. i have no idea what they're shouting about because they're usually speaking in twi. most times, they're not angry, just happily greeting someone walking down the street or being loud for the sake of being loud.

it's a strange position i find myself in, wishing for a few minutes of peace and quiet. being loud for the sake of being loud has always been my style, a sign that i'm in a good mood. often commented on by friends and family...my dad in particular has never been a big fan of pointless noise. he's told me so dozens of times over the years. “brennan, you're like a goddamn foghorn!” i might be loud by our polite, reserved canadian standards, but over here, i'm the quiet, timid one.

dad would love ghana.

the conduct of drivers has been a constant source of amusement to me here. it's like the horn is an extension of their bodies, and they are conductors composing a great work.

constantly.

they honk when other cars get too close, they honk as warnings, they honk at people on the streets, at night and in the mornings. and since everyone greets everyone, i can't tell if they recognize someone, or if they honk simply because it's fun.

dr. seuss anyone?

even here in the luv fm newsroom, it's chaos. on one side is a blaring radio, on the other a television. if i turn them down, someone comes around and cranks the volume again. obviously, the fact that i'm not going deaf is a mistake. and all around me, a yelling, laughing, dancing mass merrily going about the day's business. this would never happen at home. i can't believe i used to complain about the annoying static of police scanners while i was trying to write news at ctv. ha!

personally, i think it's just part of the national character. like breaking out in spontaneous song and dance for no apparent reason. and for the most part, the sheer joy of living is infectious and fun.

but having said that, it can be exhausting. i think i'll go lock myself in the bathroom for a few minutes of peace.